Friday 27 May 2011

May 22-25 Alice to Mataranka

On Monday, we said farewell to Emily as she flew back to cold old Melbourne. It was great to catch up with her and to reunite the family for a couple of days in Alice. That won't happen again for a while now.

The sign says "welcome" but its actually farewell for Emily, Judith & Robert

First stop for us was Devil's Marbles. What a great place! There's a camping ground off the main road right in the middle of the rocks. We arrived late in the day about 4:30pm after a long drive from Alice (well we only left about midday - we don't do early any more). There were over 30 caravans already set up for the night. We were lucky to get one of the last available spots. But we loved the place. No restrictions about where you can walk and photograph, unlike Ayers Rock. Dogs were allowed in the camping area but not around the rocks, which is fair enough.
We were lucky to enjoy both the sunset and the sunrise.
A crowded camping ground at the Devil's Marbles
Another view of the camping ground taken from a large marble
As we awoke the next morning, this was the exceptional view of the sunrise over the marbles as seen through the van window

Great little walks amongst the marbles

They reckon the marbles were formed by weathering.
Hard to believe that such rounded shapes were once a solid layer of rock
The dogs were feeling left out (again) so we snuck them in for a quick photo
After Devil's Marbles, we drove on to Tennant Creek. We had heard mixed reports about this town - mostly bad. "Just get your petrol and keep driving." But some of the travel guides made it sound good. We were pleasantly surprised. We found a little Oasis called Lake Mary Ann just outside the dirty miserable town. A few travellers pulled in. We actually met up again with some nice folks that we met in Alice - Paula and Don from Cairns. After being in Alice for a while, you don't expect to see large amounts of fresh water and large green grassy picnic areas. And to add to that, they had free hot showers in the amenities block.
Mary Ann Dam just outside of Tennant Creek

Wow, green grass and a big lake of water (behind)

The dogs enjoy a lookout view across the plains surrounding Tenant Creek.
Some good advice on the sign - it says "Don't be a tosser." I often say that too.
After Tennant Creek, we drove on for a few hundred more kilometers. We stopped by the side of the road about 40km south of Elliot. We found an old track that went into the bush  and then into an opening where we could set up camp. Nice and secluded as well as quiet. Had a great night's sleep there.

Next day we passed through Elliot - a very serious contender for the worst town in Australia. Just keep driving...

A feature of the landscape around this area is the termite mounds. They come in all shapes and sizes and are quite fascinating.

Example of a termite mound - could easily fit a few dogs inside

Some interesting shapes made by the artistic little termites
We drove on to Mataranka. This is the town setting for the great Australian book "We of the Never Never", that neither Judith or I have read. The town is also famous for it natural hot springs. We checked them out on arrival, but there were about 50 people in a relatively small pool of water with another coach load of bloody tourists just arriving - not our idea of fun. We found a camp site about 10km out of town on the road to the Elsey Cemetery. Many of the characters who feature in the book are buried in this cemetery. This was an even better camping spot - secluded and very quiet. another great night's sleep.
Our camp site off the road to the Elsey Cemetery
In the morning, we went back to the springs in the hope that it would be a little less populated than the previous afternoon. We enjoyed an hour or so in the water with only one other couple (elderly German tourists). Very, very relaxing.
The natural hot springs at Mataranka - a very pleasant 34 degrees and pure fresh spring water
We are now looking out for a copy of the "We of the Never Never" DVD.

Sunday 22 May 2011

May 21 Emily goes to Emily Gap

We went in a few different directions today; Ruby went to Trephina Gorge in the East MacDonnell ranges with Dad (because she can't get there in her little Mazda due to the river crossings) and Emily went shopping with Mum (because she gashed her leg the night before at the night club and didn't think she could go hiking around a gorge).

I had been to Trephina last week with Jude, so it was familiar territory, but still just as enjoyable.
Ruby at Trephina Gorge
Always the thrill-seeker, Ruby thought she would try tea-potting after her success with planking
 We went a short distance down a 4WD track and disturbed a huge lizard that was sun-baking on the track.


On the way back to Alice, we had a quick stop off at Emily Gap.
Ruby struggling with her teapot impersonation. Maybe you should stick to planking?
When we returned to Alice, we swapped children and I got to take Emily to Emily Gap. We just had to!

Emily Gap is only about 10km out from Alice, so a short drive and not much walking when you get there.


Emily takes the turn off to Emily Gap

Guess who this is?
Welcome to Emily Gap, Emily

Emily @ Emily Gap


Adventurous Emily wades across Emily Creek


May 20 Flight to Ayers Rock

Today was special. We flew from Alice Springs to Ayers Rock and took in all the sights in between. It was a great treat, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Emily is only in town for 4 days. We considered initially how we might drive to see Ayers Rock. We have no back seat in our car. The Mazda is small and certainly couldn't tow the van. We could hire a car, but we can't sleep 4 in the van - 3 would be a squeeze and has never been done before. We thought about camping, but Ruby doesn't do camping. Precious little princess that she is. Not sure about Emily either. So, only one viable option left - fly there. And that's what we did.

The plane was a 5 seater with single prop. Here's what it looks like from the inside.
Ruby and Emily are ready for take-off
That's me in the co-pilot's seat. Very frustrating - I wasn't allowed to touch anything

As we chatted with the pilot during the flight, it came out that he used to live in the same street as we did at one stage - Mark Court Chadstone. While we didn't live there at the same time, it is a pretty amazing coincidence.

On with the flight...
The views of the landscape around Alice Springs are stunning from the air.
This is a view of Alice Springs from the east. Ruby's house is in the group of buildings in the middle right of the photo.

The flight path went from Alice Springs airport across town and along the West MacDonnell ranges 
Simpson Gap - this is where we visited the day before

Close up view of the MacDonnell ranges
 
The ranges look like they go on for ever...

You can really appreciate the movement of the tectonic plates from the air

Another change of landscape, apparently formed when this area was part of an ocean

I can imagine this being the edge of the ocean at some point in history
 After leaving the West MacDonnell ranges we went to the Gosse Crater. We haven't seen this from the ground as there is only dirt track access and its also quite a distance away from Alice Springs (and every else for that matter).
Gosse crater - formed by a meteor colliding with the earth a few years ago
 After the crater, we then flew over Kings Canyon. Unfortunately we didn't see any people climbing along the cliffs  
Kings Canyon - not quite as impressive from the air as it was from the ground
  
Another view of Kings Canyon - still looks pretty good
 From Kings Canyon we flew further south towards Ayers Rock and the Olgas. The landscape changes dramatically. Firstly we fly over some large salt lakes. Then the ground flattens out and stays flat for miles and miles. The flat landscape is quite an appropriate setting for the surprising and stunning protrusions that are Ayers Rock and the Olgas.
Salt Lakes on the way to the rock - part of the Amadeus Basin

Unlike Lake Eyre, there's not much water around here, despite all the rain

As we got closer to the rock, the ground goes flat and monotonous, but still interesting

The Olgas - they look fantastic from the air! And I still think they look like happy rocks

A closer view of the happy Olgas

Can't help but notice this big old rock

Apart from Emily feeling a bit sick during parts of the flight, the trip was a great success and a very special memory of Central Australia.